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  • Olive oil & wine tastings with rustic masseria meals
  • Explore trulli villages and white hill towns
  • Coastal escapes to Polignano and baroque Lecce

Trip Summary

The Puglia Project is deeply personal for me. It’s a culinary journey shaped by family, memory, and a part of Italy that has always felt like home. We begin in Bari, the vibrant coastal city along the Adriatic, and make our way inland to Bovino — a medieval hilltop village in northern Puglia where my grandparents and great-grandparents were born before emigrating to America in the early 1900s.

While Italy was recently named the world’s top travel destination by Condé Nast Traveler, most visitors gravitate toward Rome, Florence, and Venice.

Puglia remains different. It’s quieter, more authentic, and still deeply rooted in tradition. That’s exactly why I keep coming back.

This journey is about uncovering the Italy that exists beyond the crowds — slow mornings, local kitchens, small towns, and conversations that don’t feel rushed. It’s an off-the-beaten-path experience designed to feel genuine and immersive, free from tour buses, tourist clichés, and anything that feels staged.

This is the Italy I know — and the one I’m excited to share.

Jason Capps

Overview

This ten-day, nine-night journey offers an intimate blend of cultural immersion, culinary excellence, and heartfelt storytelling. Guests will stay in a curated mix of historic castles, countryside masserie, and family-run agriturismi, experiencing authentic southern Italian hospitality at every turn. Along the way, you’ll meet Jason’s extended family and the local artisans who continue to honor Puglia’s rich culinary traditions, from field to table.

Day 1: Benvenuti in Puglia! Welcome to Polignano a Mare

Saturday, October 10th

Our journey begins as you arrive in Bari, the vibrant gateway to Puglia. From the airport or train station, your driver will bring you to the outskirts of Polignano a Mare, a postcard-perfect coastal town perched dramatically above the Adriatic. Settle into the rhythm of southern Italy as you wander the narrow lanes, take in sweeping sea views, or simply unwind after your travels. This evening, we’ll gather for a welcome toast and dinner at Borgobianco, our first hotel property. It will be our first chance to raise a glass together, savor local flavors, and set the tone for an unforgettable week ahead.

Day 2: Bari Streets, Fresh Fish & Seaside Charm in Monopoli

Sunday, October 11th

This morning we head into Bari, where the Old Town hums with daily life and the scent of the sea. We’ll explore the winding streets of Bari Vecchia and stop by the lively fish market, a true window into local culture. After taking in the atmosphere, we’ll enjoy a fresh and flavorful lunch in Bari. In the afternoon, we continue down the coast to Monopoli, a delightful mix of whitewashed alleys, bright fishing boats, and hidden piazzas. Take time to wander, relax by the old port, or enjoy an aperitivo overlooking the water. We’ll ease into the evening with a casual night in Monopoli, soaking in its laid-back coastal charm before returning to Polignano for the night.

Day 3:A Day on the Adriatic: Puglia by Sea

Monday, October 12th

Today we trade cobblestone streets for sparkling blue waters with a full boat day in Polignano a Mare. We’ll cruise along the dramatic coastline, slipping into sea caves, swimming in hidden coves, and soaking up the sunshine from the deck. A fresh lunch on board keeps the day feeling effortless and indulgent—exactly how a day on the Adriatic should be. After we return to shore, the evening is yours to enjoy. Explore Polignano’s charming lanes, find a seaside spot for dinner, or simply unwind with a gelato in hand. We’ll also take a bit of time to pack up, as tomorrow we set off for the next chapter of our Puglian adventure.

Day 4: From the Sea to the Stones: Matera & Masseria Retreat

Tuesday, October 13th

This morning we pack our bags and say arrivederci to Polignano as we make our way inland to the unforgettable city of Matera. Once we arrive, we’ll set off on a guided walking tour through the ancient Sassi, exploring cave dwellings, winding stairways, and panoramic viewpoints that make Matera unlike anywhere else in the world. After our walk, we’ll enjoy a delicious lunch soaking in the atmosphere before we continue our journey. In the late afternoon, we head to our beautiful new home for the next few days: a charming Masseria tucked into the Puglian countryside in Locorotondo. Take time to settle into your room or simply relax. This evening, we’ll share a light dinner at the property, a cozy and relaxed start to our stay in this dreamy setting.

Day 5: Trulli, Hilltop Views & the Charm of Cisternino

Wednesday, October 14th

Today we venture deeper into the heart of the Valle d’Itria, beginning with a visit to Alberobello, where the iconic trulli create one of the most enchanting scenes in Puglia. We’ll wander through the cone-topped lanes, learn the stories behind these one-of-a-kind homes, and enjoy plenty of opportunities for photos and exploration. Next, we continue to Locorotondo, a beautifully preserved hilltop town wrapped in bright white stone. Known for its circular layout and sweeping countryside views, it’s the perfect place for a slow stroll, a coffee break, or simply enjoying the relaxed southern-Italian rhythm. In the afternoon, we’ll head to Cisternino, a small but wonderfully charming town known for its whitewashed lanes, welcoming piazzas, and postcard-worthy views across olive groves and vineyards. It’s peaceful, authentic, and ideal for wandering at your own pace before we return to the masseria. This evening, enjoy free time to relax and savor the quiet beauty of the countryside.

Day 6: Olive Oil, the White City of Ostuni, & Lecce

Thursday, October 15th

This morning we dive into one of Puglia’s most treasured traditions with a hands-on olive oil experience, wandering ancient groves and tasting the region’s famed “liquid gold.” We’ll roll up our sleeves for a pasta-making class, crafting local favorites like orecchiette by hand, followed by a delicious lunch enjoying our creations. In the early afternoon, we head to Ostuni, the dazzling “White City” perched high above the olive-dotted countryside. Wander its bright, winding alleys, soak in sweeping panoramic views, and enjoy the charming atmosphere of this iconic hilltop town. From there, we continue south to Lecce, often called the “Florence of the South.” Spend the late afternoon exploring its baroque architecture, lively piazzas, and historic churches, capturing the essence of this vibrant city. We return to the masseria in the early evening for a light dinner, a cozy and relaxed way to end a full day. Don’t forget to pack your bags for tomorrow’s transfer to Bovino.

Day 7: Scenic Transfers, Sweet Stops & Hilltop Bovino

Friday, October 16th

Today we journey inland from the Valle d’Itria toward the charming hilltop town of Bovino. Along the way, we’ll pause in Gravina in Puglia, perched above a dramatic canyon, where narrow lanes, ancient churches, and sweeping views offer a taste of Puglia’s historic heart. A short stop in Altamura lets us stretch our legs and admire its stunning cathedral. Arriving in Bovino in the afternoon, we’ll treat ourselves at a renowned local pastry shop, indulging in traditional dolci that capture the sweetness of southern Italy. The rest of the afternoon is free to wander the town’s charming alleys and take in the breathtaking hilltop views. We’ll gather for dinner in Bovino, sharing the flavors of the region.

Day 8: Farm Life & Flavors of the Countryside

Saturday, October 17th

Today we immerse ourselves in the rhythms and flavors of the Apulian countryside with a hands-on farm experience. Wander among rolling pastures and meet the animals that help create the region’s famed cheeses. You’ll get a chance to see the traditional production process up close, learning the secrets behind these rich, creamy, and tangy delights. Afterwards, enjoy a farm-to-table tasting, sampling freshly made cheeses paired with local bread, olive oil, and other artisanal treats—a delicious way to connect with the land and its bounty. The afternoon is yours to relax in the serene surroundings, soak in the countryside views, and savor the slower pace of life before returning to Bovino.

Day 9: Wine & Jason's Roots

Sunday, October 18th

On our final day in Puglia, we raise a glass to the region’s rich flavors with a morning and afternoon wine tasting experience. Stroll through the vineyards, learn about local grape varieties, and discover the traditional techniques that make Puglian wines so distinctive. We’ll enjoy a lunch paired with the wines, savoring each sip and bite as we soak in the peaceful vineyard scenery. In the evening, we have a very special opportunity: spending time with Jason’s cousins, connecting with local roots and family traditions. Share stories, laughter, and perhaps a final toast together as we celebrate the end of our unforgettable journey through Puglia.

Day 10: Departure

Monday, October 19th

Enjoy your accommodation or explore the town before departing for your next destination. In Puglia or Italy. Buon Viaggio!

"It was truly a trip of a lifetime. Kelly & Jason were absolutely amazing. Every detail they put into the trip was perfect!"
Ashley L.
"Probably the greatest experience of my life. Jason & Kelly were the greatest hosts and took care of every single need we had. Without these two, we could have never experience authentic Italian living. Truly the greatest tour ever!!!"
Sherry L.
"Our hosts were fabulous. No way possible to do what we did without their expertise & passion. Wish we would have done this sooner and look forward to going back!"
Raymond K.

The Essence

Puglia is known as Italy’s breadbasket, the country’s largest producer of grain, grapes, and olive oil. But for Jason, it’s also the cradle of his own story. This is a journey where history and hospitality meet, where family becomes the thread that ties every experience together.

Trip Details

What’s Included

  • Nine nights, Ten days around Puglia
  • Arrival transfer (day-of) from Bari airport to hotel
  • All hotel accommodations, meals, wine / beverages, guided tours & experiences
  • All transportation throughout trip

What’s Not Included

  • Airfare
  • Departure transport

$7,795 per person

(based on double occupancy)

Oct 10 - 19, 2026

Why Join The Puglia Project

Join the Puglia Project to experience the authentic heart of Southern Italy, incredible food, iconic white-washed towns, and meaningful connections in a small, curated group. It’s a journey designed for travelers who want culture, community, and unforgettable memories all in one trip.

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October 10 - 19, 2026

$7,795 Per Person

Based on double occupancy

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Negroni Sbagliato

(“Sbagliato” = mistaken, wrong — as in, made incorrectly)

Time: 1 Min

Serves: 1

One of my favorite drinks these days… The Negroni Sbagliato. Invented by accident (aren’t so many great recipes?), in Milan at the marble bar of Bar Basso, it’s a somewhat obscure classic. The bar owner mistakenly grabbed a bottle of Prosecco instead of gin, turning the classic Negroni into something lighter, sparkling, and instantly iconic. One sip and I understood why many Italians embraced the mistake.

These days, it’s my go-to summer aperitivo — lighter than a traditional Negroni and easy enough to enjoy two, without feeling weighed down by gin. I love serving it as a signature drink at my Villa la Civetta evenings during the Tuscany tours. It feels festive, Italian through and through, and has that golden-hour sparkle that sets the tone for an incredible night ahead.

Ingredients

  • 1 oz (30 ml) Campari
  • 1 oz (30 ml) sweet vermouth
  • 1 oz (30 ml) chilled Prosecco (or more, to taste)
  • Orange slice or twist, for garnish

Instructions

  1. Prep: Fill a rocks glass with ice to chill.
  2. Build: Drain off water from melted ice. Add Campari and sweet vermouth.
  3. Top: Pour chilled Prosecco over the top.
  4. Finish: Stir gently and garnish with an orange slice or twist.

Serving Suggestion

Serve before dinner with:

  • Olives
  • Taralli (I call these Pugliese pretzels)
  • Grissini wrapped in prosciutto
  • Prosciutto-wrapped melon
  • Bruschetta al pomodoro

Perfect for aperitivo hour — especially in warm weather.

Flavor Footnotes

  • Use a high-quality sweet vermouth; it makes a noticeable difference.
  • Play with the ratios:
    • More Campari = more bitter
    • More vermouth = deeper and sweeter
    • More Prosecco = brighter, lighter, and more festive
  • Swap the orange slice for a fresh lemon or blood orange twist.
  • A splash of soda water creates an even lighter, low-ABV version.
  • Classics are classics for a reason — but your own personal tweaks are what make them memorable. For example, I sometimes sub half the vermouth for Aperol to make a Negroni Sbagliato Spritz and serve in a red wine glass.
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Homemade Limoncello

(Limoncello fatto in casa)

Time: 7 Mins

Serves: 1 Liter

I made my very first batch of limoncello this past May under the guidance of good friend, Blake — a chemist by degree and a perfectionist when it comes to spirits and measurements. The organic lemons came straight from my dear friend Salvatore’s groves in Amalfi, where we host our Lemon Experience for Jason’s Journeys each fall. They were picked, shipped, peeled, and soaked in grain alcohol within two days of harvest. If you’ve learned one thing by now, it’s how I think: “THE FRESHER THE BETTER.”

Here in Italy, 96% pure grain alcohol is easy to find — clean, crisp, and perfect for this recipe. Skip the idea of using vodka or homemade “moonshine” grain alcohol. I like mine with less sugar and a slightly higher alcohol content (around 40%, or 80 proof), similar to the versions you’ll find in Calabria and Puglia. The result is bright, aromatic, and unforgettable — true to the Amalfi spirit with a little Tuscan touch.

Ingredients

  • 10–12 organic, unwaxed lemons
  • 750 ml pure grain alcohol (95–96%)
  • 2 cups water
  • 1 cup sugar (up to 1½ cups if you prefer a sweeter limoncello)

Instructions

  1. Prep the lemons: Wash and dry thoroughly. Using a sharp peeler, remove only the yellow zest — avoid every bit of white pith.
  2. Steep: Place the peels in a large glass jar and cover with the alcohol. Seal and store in a cool, dark place for 12–14 days, shaking gently every day or two.
  3. Make the syrup: Heat water and sugar just until dissolved; do not boil. Cool completely.
  4. Strain: Strain the infused alcohol twice, first through a fine sieve and then through a clean coffee filter for perfect clarity. Discard the peels.
  5. Combine: Add the cooled syrup slowly, tasting now won’t help, it changes over time. You can always add water to weaken the alcohol presence, and sugar to sweeten more, but you can’t take either out.
  6. Rest: Bottle, seal well, and let rest at least 7 days, ideally 3–4 weeks in cool, dark place, then in the freezer before serving, for a smooth, silky finish.

Serving Suggestion

  • Serve ice-cold in small glasses after dinner — sip, don’t shoot, the Italian way.
  • For an aperitivo, make a Limoncello Spritz: limoncello + prosecco + sparkling water + lemon peel + fresh mint sprig.
  • Drizzle over vanilla gelato or mix into summer cocktails.

Digestivo Pairing: Perfect with panna cotta, biscotti, or espresso.

Flavor Footnotes

  • The zest is everything: get every bit of yellow, and absolutely none of the white pith.
  • Double-straining (fine sieve + coffee filter) keeps the limoncello crystal clear.
  • Steeping a full two weeks extracts the deepest color and aroma.
  • Start with less syrup; you can always sweeten more later.
  • Store the bottle in the freezer — the texture becomes silky, cold, and almost viscous.
  • Limoncello improves with age; flavor rounds out beautifully after a few weeks.
Bottling & Gifting Notes
 
  • Swing-top bottles are fantastic for home use.
  • For gifting, use clear glass bottles with synthetic corks and add shrink-style seals for a professional finish.
  • Create a custom label — great for holiday gifts or Jason’s Journeys guest departures. (Note to self)
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Blueberry Panna Cotta

(Panna cotta ai mirtilli)

Time: 45 Mins

Serves: 4

While Italy has no shortage of simple custard-style desserts — from semifreddo to crema catalana — panna cotta has always been my favorite for its simplicity and freshness. “Panna cotta” literally means cooked cream, even though it never touches an oven. I often serve it at Villa la Civetta in small, chilled cups after dinner, topped with whatever fruit is perfectly ripe that week.

I love the summer blueberries, but this dessert adapts beautifully throughout the year — strawberries in May, raspberries in June, peaches in late summer. And for a slightly more decadent twist, a quick caramel drizzle gives it an elegant, non-fruit finish. Smooth-sided aluminum cups work wonderfully for easy unmolding at larger parties, but small soufflé dishes or even sturdy rocks glasses are great options too.

Ingredients

Panna Cotta

  • 2 cups heavy cream
  • ½ cup milk
  • ½ cup sugar
  • 1 tsp pure vanilla extract (or seeds from ½ vanilla bean)
  • 2½ tsp powdered gelatin (or 3 gelatin sheets)
  • 3 tbsp cold water (for blooming powdered gelatin only)

Blueberry Sauce


  • ¾ cup fresh blueberries
  • 1 tsp sugar
  • 1–2 whole cloves (or a tiny pinch of ground clove)
  • Pinch of cinnamon (optional)
  • Fresh lemon juice, to finish

Instructions

  1. Bloom the gelatin: Sprinkle powdered gelatin over 3 tbsp cold water and let sit 5 minutes until softened. (If using gelatin sheets, soak them in cold water until softened, then squeeze gently before adding to the warm cream mixture)
  2. Heat cream: Warm cream, milk, and sugar in a saucepan over medium heat until hot (do not boil).
  3. Combine: Remove from heat. Add vanilla, then whisk in the softened gelatin (or softened sheets) until completely dissolved.
  4. Chill: Pour into small cups, aluminum molds, soufflé dishes, or rocks glasses. Chill at least 4 hours or overnight.
  5. Make the blueberry sauce: In a small pan, combine blueberries, sugar, cloves, and cinnamon. Cook gently until the berries release their juices and the mixture thickens slightly, 3–5 minutes. Remove from heat and add a squeeze of fresh lemon. Cool fully.
  6. Serve: Spoon the blueberry sauce over each panna cotta just before serving.

Serving Suggestion

Serve chilled with extra berries and a small mint sprig.

Wine Pairing: Moscato d’Asti or Vin Santo.

Flavor Footnotes

  • Real vanilla (bean or extract) makes a huge difference in depth and aroma.
  • The perfect panna cotta should have a soft, delicate wobble — never rubbery.
  • Chill your serving cups first for a perfectly smooth set.
  • Serve directly in the cups or molds — unmolding is optional.
  • A quick caramel drizzle can replace the fruit entirely for a more refined dessert.

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    Italian-Style Meatballs in Tomato Sauce

    (Polpette al Sugo)

    Time: 45 Mins

    Serves: 4

    I grew up eating spaghetti and meatballs — my mom is 100% Italian, and in our house it was comfort food in its purest form. It’s one of the great Italian-American dishes, and there’s nothing wrong with loving it just as it is.

    But in Italy, meatballs are served differently. You won’t find them over spaghetti. Instead, they’re gently simmered in sauce, like this recipe, or fried and topped with Parmigiano and a little lemon. This version is the one I make most often — simple, honest, deeply flavorful.

    Ingredients

    For the Meatballs

    • 1 lb ground beef • 7 oz ground pork (optional but traditional)
    • 1 cup fresh breadcrumbs • ½ cup whole milk
    • 1 egg
    • ½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
    • 2 garlic cloves, minced • 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
    • Salt & black pepper
    • Olive oil, for searing

    For the Tomato Sauce

    • 2 tbsp olive oil
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed
    • 28 oz crushed tomatoes or passata
    • 1 tsp sugar (or whole peeled/chopped carrot – to balance acidity)
    • Salt & pepper
    • Fresh basil leaves

    Instructions

    1. Make the mixture: Soak breadcrumbs in milk until softened. Combine with beef, pork (if using), egg, Parmigiano, garlic, parsley, salt, and pepper; mix gently.
    2. Shape: Roll into golf-ball-sized meatballs; set aside.
    3. Brown: Heat olive oil in a wide pan over medium. Brown meatballs lightly on all sides; remove and set aside.
    4. Start the sauce: In the same pan, sauté the onion until soft. Add garlic; cook 1 minute. Stir in tomatoes, season, and bring to a gentle simmer.
    5. Simmer: Nestle the meatballs into the sauce, cover, and cook 35-55 minutes, turning occasionally.
    6. Finish: Stir in fresh basil. Taste and adjust seasoning.

    Serving Suggestion

    Serve with crusty bread, roasted vegetables, or yes — over spaghetti if that’s how you grew up and love it.

    Wine Pairing: A young Chianti or Barbera d’Asti.

    Flavor Footnotes

    • A spoonful of ricotta, in the meat mixture adds tenderness, or some on the side makes for a great condiment.
    • For a gluten-free version, replace breadcrumbs with ground fresh eggplant — it works beautifully as a binder.
    • Gentle browning keeps the meatballs soft; avoid searing over high heat. Consider baking versus a skillet.
    • If the sauce thickens too much, add water and simmer slowly.
    • Shape the meatballs ahead and refrigerate for stress-free entertaining.
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    Fried Porcini Mushrooms, Tuscan Style

    (Funghi porcini fritti)

    Time: 7 Mins

    Serves: 4

    Some years, porcini season in Tuscany is good — but this fall it was incredible. After the right mix of rain and sunshine, the forests were full of them, and you’d see foragers in town carrying small wooden baskets, pedaling their finds to restaurant owners. 

    I buy mine from roadside stands or a small produce shop in Lucca Centro, where the friendly owner always helps pick the ones I like — and slips me a sprig of fresh nepitella (wild mint) for porcini tagliatelle (recipe coming in the next booklet!). 

    As delicious as fresh porcini are, you can absolutely use other mushrooms in a pinch — cremini, portobello, or whatever you can find. The idea here is simplicity. Let the earthy, woodsy flavor speak for itself. And as always in Italy, and anywhere: the fresher, the better.

    Ingredients

    • 4–6 fresh porcini mushrooms (depending on size)
    • ½ cup flour (or a mix of flour + 1–2 tbsp semolina or fine polenta for extra crispness)
    • Salt & freshly ground black pepper
    • Olive oil, for frying
    • Lemon wedges, for serving
    • 1 beaten egg (optional for a slightly thicker crust)

    Instructions

    1. Prep: Cut away only the very end with dirt. Clean gently with a damp cloth — never rinse under running water.
    2. Slice: Cut into ½-inch slices. 
    3. Season: Mix flour, salt, and pepper (and semolina/polenta if using).
    4. Dredge: Dust slices lightly in the seasoned mixture (or dip in beaten egg first for a thicker crust).
    5. Fry: Heat olive oil over medium and fry 2–3 minutes per side, until golden.
    6. Finish: Drain on paper towels, season with a pinch of salt, and serve immediately.

    Serving Suggestion

    Serve hot as an antipasto with a simple aioli and crusty bread, or alongside grilled meats as a vegetable side dish. 

    Wine Pairing: Sangiovese or Pinot Nero.

    Flavor Footnotes

    • Never wash porcini under running water — they absorb moisture and lose flavor.
    • Fresh porcini are best enjoyed the same day they’re picked or purchased.
    • Try them raw: thin slices with olive oil, lemon, salt, and Parmigiano.
    • Adding semolina or fine polenta in the flour mix adds a beautiful crisp edge.
    • Salt moderately, immediately out of the oil, truffle salt is great.
    • A squeeze of lemon brightens their earthy richness instantly.
    • For fresh porcini pasta, look for the upcoming recipe booklet featuring porcini tagliatelle with nepitella.

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      Eggplant Parmesan

      (Parmigiana di Melanzane)

      Time: 80 Mins

      Serves: 6

      Growing up next door to my Grandma Greco, it seemed like eggplant parm was always on the table. I can still remember the aroma, the one I could smell long before I got to her back door. When I started my catering company 25 years ago, this was the first dish I carried forward — I’ve never stopped making it.

      These days I grow the eggplant, several varieties, far more than I can cook. This recipe defines comfort food; familiar and versatile, like lasagna, it’s one of the best make-ahead dishes you can keep in your freezer — ready to thaw and bake when company arrives.

      Ingredients

      • 1 large eggplant (sliced as thin as possible)
      • Kosher or sea salt
      • 1 cup seasoned flour
      • 2 beaten eggs
      • 2 cups tomato sauce (homemade or high-quality)
      • 1 cup shredded mozzarella (add fresh mozzarella too if you want)
      • ½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
      • Olive oil, for frying
      • Fresh basil leaves, torn

      Instructions

      1. Prep the eggplant: Lay slices out, sprinkle lightly with salt, and rest 30 minutes. Pat dry.
      2. Dredge: First dip in beaten egg, dredge completely in to flour.
      3. Fry: Shallow-fry in olive oil until lightly golden on both sides. Drain on paper towels. Lightly salt.
      4. Preheat: Heat oven to 375°F.
      5. Assemble: Spread a thin layer of tomato sauce in a baking dish, then layer eggplant, mozzarella, Parmigiano, and basil. Repeat, finishing with sauce and cheese.
      6. Bake: Cover with parchment and then foil; bake 30–45 minutes, until bubbling and golden.
      7. Rest & serve: Let rest 15 minutes before slicing. Garnish with torn basil and extra cheese.

      Serving Suggestion

      Serve with a simple green salad or roasted peppers. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil and a few fresh basil leaves.

      Wine Pairing: Chianti Classico Riserva or Nero d’Avola.

      Flavor Footnotes

      • Slice eggplant thin, with a mandolin if you have one.
      • “Less is more”: don’t overload with cheese or sauce — let the eggplant shine.
      • Salting first draws out moisture and removes any bitterness.
      • This dish freezes beautifully before baking — wrap tightly and cook later.
      • For a lighter version, brush slices with olive oil and roast instead of frying.
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      Tuscan Kale & Borlotti Bean Soup

      (Zuppa di Fagioli e Cavolo Nero)

      Time: 60 Mins

      Serves: 6

      This hearty vegetable soup holds a special place in my heart. When I arrived at Villa la Civetta for the first time (since the closing months prior), it was cold, dark, and raining. My neighbor, Gina, had a pot of this waiting for me on the stove. I was exhausted from travel, fumbling for light switches, and that first bowl felt like pure comfort — warm, simple, unmistakably Tuscan.

      Since that night, Gina and I have made it together many times, often with vegetables straight from my garden. I’ve shared it on live TV back in Pittsburgh, and it always reminds me of that feeling of caring. There’s nothing better than having a pot of soup ready when guests arrive — especially in winter — it says, “welcome, come in out of the cold.”

      Ingredients

      • 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil (plus more for finishing)
      • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
      • 2 carrots, diced • 2 celery stalks, diced • 2 garlic cloves, minced
      • 2 small zucchini, diced • 1 small potato, peeled & diced
      • 1 cup chopped ripe tomatoes (fresh or canned)
      • 2 cups cooked borlotti beans (reserve broth & half beans for puréeing)
      • 4–5 cups vegetable broth (or enough to cover)
      • 2 cups chopped cavolo nero (Tuscan kale / lacinato kale)
      • Salt & freshly ground black pepper
      • Parmesan rind (optional)
      • Chopped parsley or basil, for garnish

      Instructions

      1. Sauté the base: Heat olive oil in a large pot over medium. Add onion, carrot, and celery; cook until soft and fragrant, about 10 minutes.
      2. Add vegetables: Stir in garlic, zucchini, and potato; cook 3–4 minutes.
      3. Add tomatoes: Cook until they begin to break down.
      4. Add broth & beans: Pour in broth, most of the borlotti beans, and the Parmesan rind (if using). Bring to a gentle simmer.
      5. Purée to thicken: Remove ½ cup of beans with a little broth, purée, and stir back in — this gives the soup a natural, velvety body.
      6. Add greens: Stir in cavolo nero and simmer 25–30 minutes, until tender.
      7. Finish: Season generously with salt and pepper. Remove the Parmesan rind before serving.

      Serving Suggestion

      Serve hot with crusty Tuscan bread rubbed with garlic and a drizzle of olive oil. Top with Parmigiano-Reggiano and fresh herbs.

      Wine Pairing: Chianti Classico or Morellino di Scansano.

      Flavor Footnotes

      • Cavolo nero is essential — its earthy flavor defines this soup.
      • Puréeing a portion of the beans is the key to the soup’s texture.
      • Consider doubling or tripling the recipe — it freezes exceptionally well.
      • The soup thickens and improves overnight — leftovers are outstanding.
      • A Parmesan rind enriches the broth; omit it to keep the soup vegetarian.
      • Always finish with a drizzle of your best olive oil.
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      Fresh Basil Pesto

      (Pesto Di Basilico Fresco)

      Time: 5 Mins

      Serves: 6

      I first learned to make pesto in the classic Ligurian style, oddly enough, on a small boat in 2017 along the jagged Cinque Terre coastline, during my early Ten Days in Tuscany tours. The chef onboard showed our group how to gently work the basil, pine nuts, and cheese together by hand, first seasoning the mortar with fresh garlic.

      Later that summer, I met a pesto master in Prà, the hillside village outside Genova where basil pesto was born. From those lessons, I learned that real pesto isn’t about blending — it’s about patience, balance, and respecting the basil above everything else.

      Ingredients

      • 2 packed cups fresh young basil leaves
      • ⅓ cup pine nuts (Italian if possible; see Flavor Footnotes for alternatives)
      • 1 fresh peeled garlic clove (split, remove core, especially if green)
      • ¼ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
      • ¼ cup grated Pecorino Romano (This two-cheese combination is the true classic Ligurian blend — Parmigiano for sweetness, Pecorino for salinity.)
      • ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil (approximately, add to desired consistency)
      • Sea salt, to taste

      Instructions

      1. Before you start: In true Ligurian style, use the garlic clove to “season” the mortar first — this softens the bite and perfumes the basil.
      2. Begin the base: In a mortar and pestle (or a food processor if you must), add the garlic and a pinch of sea salt. Add the basil and pine nuts.
      3. Crush or pulse: Work gently until a coarse paste forms — never rush this part.
      4. Add olive oil: Drizzle in the olive oil slowly, stirring or pulsing just until combined.
      5. Finish with cheese: Fold in the Parmigiano and Pecorino by hand so the pesto stays soft and creamy.
      6. Season: Taste and adjust — in Italy, garlic enhances, it never dominates. Add more only if you love a stronger flavor.

      Serving Suggestion

      Toss gently with fresh pasta, spoon over tomato and mozzarella, or serve with burrata and toasted bread.

      Wine Pairing: Vernaccia di San Gimignano or Pigato from Liguria.

      Flavor Footnotes

      • Young basil leaves keep the pesto sweet, tender, and bright green.
      • For nut alternatives: walnuts and blanched almonds are excellent; toast lightly for deeper flavor.
      • For nut allergies: substitute toasted breadcrumbs — a trick used in parts of Liguria.
      • Never blend pesto until smooth; the texture should remain rustic.
      • When storing, cover the surface with a thin layer of olive oil to protect the color.
      • Freeze in small jars or ice-cube trays for perfect portions.
      • Never heat pesto directly — toss only with warm, drained pasta.
      • Variations I often make: arugula pesto (peppery), parsley pesto (fresh and herbal), or mixes of all three.
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      Slow-Roasted Tomato Confit

      (Confit di pomodoro arrostito lentamente)

      Time: 180 Mins

      Serves: 8

      By August, my vines are typically drooping with a colorful rainbow of tomatoes — some years more, others less, but always enough to make this recipe worth doing. Honestly, I use whatever the garden gives me: sometimes I roast yellow tomatoes on their own, sometimes the red cherries, and other times I combine everything I have left.

      I learned this method from a neighbor who once told me, “Let the oven be the sun.” Slowly roasting the tomatoes concentrates their flavor into something rich and sweet, perfect for bruschetta, pasta, or honestly, spooned straight from the jar.

      Ingredients

      • 2 lbs cherry or Roma tomatoes, halved
      • 6 garlic cloves, lightly crushed
      • Several sprigs of fresh thyme and rosemary
      • 1 tsp sea salt
      • ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
      • ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

      Instructions

      Before you start: Firm, ripe tomatoes work best. Smaller varieties roast faster and become sweeter. Rinse well, pat dry.

      1. Prep: Preheat the oven to 250°F.
      2. Season: In a mixing bowl, lightly toss the tomatoes with salt, pepper, garlic and olive oil.
      3. Arrange: Spread the tomatoes on a baking sheet
      4. Roast: Cook for 2–3 hours, until tomatoes have shriveled slightly but remain tender and juicy.
      5. Store: Cool completely, pack into clean jars, and pour the roasting oil over top. Refrigerate up to 2 weeks.

      Serving Suggestion

      Serve warm over toasted bread with ricotta, or toss through fresh pasta with basil and Parmigiano.

      Wine Pairing: Rosé di Toscana or a light Chianti.

      Flavor Footnotes

      • Removing skins is optional — once cooled, they’ll slip off easily with tongs if you prefer a smoother confit.
      • Save every drop of the infused oil — it’s incredible in salad dressings or drizzled over grilled vegetables.
      • Freeze small portions flat for winter; they thaw quickly and taste like summer.
      • I often use old pesto jars with rubber-seal lids — they store perfectly and look great in the fridge.
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      Stuffed Zucchini Blossoms

      (Fiori di zucca ripieni)

      Time: 35 Mins

      Serves: 4

      La Cecca inspired this recipe — one of my favorite restaurants in Lucca. Their version pushed me to perfect my own, using blossoms snapped right off the tops of small zucchini in the morning. My daughters would sometimes help gather them, carefully removing stamens with their smaller hands, before we filled them.

      The filling is soft, fresh, and just a little savory thanks to a touch of anchovy paste — a trick I learned along the way that deepens the flavor without ever taking over. Don’t skip it. You can find anchovy paste in tubes, or just smash 1-2 from the can.

      Ingredients

      • 10–12 fresh zucchini blossoms
      • ¾ cup ricotta cheese (drained if wet)
      • 2 tbsp grated Parmesan or Pecorino
      • 1 tsp lemon zest
      • 1 tbsp chopped fresh basil and mint
      • Salt and pepper
      • ½ tsp anchovy paste (or 1 small anchovy, finely mashed)
      • 1 egg
      • 2 tbsp flour
      • ½ cup cold sparkling water (for a light batter)
      • Olive oil, for frying

      Instructions

      1. Prep the blossoms: Gently open each blossom and remove the stamens.
      2. Make the filling: Combine ricotta, Parmesan, lemon zest, herbs, salt, pepper, and anchovy paste until smooth.
      3. Fill: Use a small spoon or piping bag to fill each blossom so that the petals still enclose the filling; twist the tips closed.
      4. Make the batter: Whisk the egg, flour, salt and cold sparkling water into a thin, smooth batter (similar to pancake batter in thickness).
      5. Fry: Heat olive oil over medium. Dip each blossom into the batter and fry until golden and crisp, about 2–3 minutes per side.
      6. Finish: Drain on paper towels, sprinkle with sea salt and a little extra Parmesan, and serve warm.

      Serving Suggestion

      Serve over a spoonful of fresh tomato sauce or as an antipasto alongside grilled vegetables.

      Wine Pairing: Prosecco Superiore or a crisp Vermentino.

      Flavor Footnotes

      • The fresher the blossoms, the better — ideally picked and cooked the same day.
      • A little anchovy paste adds subtle, savory depth; don’t leave it out.
      • For a more elegant variation: nestle the fried blossoms into warm marinara, bake briefly, and finish with fresh basil.
      • Or go richer: top with crumbled gorgonzola and melt lightly before serving.
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      Zucchini Blossom Fritters

      (Frittelle di Zucchine e Fiori di Zucca)

      Time: 30 Mins

      Serves: 4

      I’m starting this packet with these fritters because they were brand-new to me — and I first made them while hosting 25 guests at Villa La Civetta during one of my Tuscany tours. I trusted my instincts, mixed the batter until it felt right, and hoped the flavors would land. They did, and they disappeared fast.

      My hope is that this recipe inspires you to try something new, too. The blossoms brighten everything, the mint and parsley give it lift, and a squeeze of lemon with a little pecorino on top brings it all to life. If I could make these for a full house of hungry travelers, you can absolutely make them at home.

      Ingredients

      • 2 small zucchini, grated
      • 8–10 zucchini blossoms, stamen removed and roughly chopped
      • 2 eggs
      • 4 tbsp grated Pecorino Toscano or Parmigiano
      • 4 tbsp flour (00 or all-purpose; chickpea flour also works)
      • Small handful fresh mint and flat-leaf parsley, chopped
      • Salt and pepper
      • Pinch of baking powder (optional, but great for a little puff)
      • Cold sparkling water, as needed to loosen the batter
      • Olive oil or sunflower oil for frying

      Instructions

      Before you start: Always fry one small tester to check seasoning. Adjust the batter before cooking the whole batch.

      1. Prep the zucchini: Grate the zucchini, lightly salt, let drain for 10–15 minutes. Squeeze out excess water.
      2. Make the batter: In a bowl, beat the eggs, add flour, baking powder, cheese, herbs, salt, and pepper. Fold in zucchini and blossoms.
      3. Adjust texture: Add just enough cold sparkling water to make a thick, scoopable batter — not runny.
      4. Fry: Heat about 1.5 inches of oil in a heavy pan until shimmering. Drop spoonfuls of batter into the oil and fry until golden, turning once.
      5. Drain & serve: Transfer to paper towels and sprinkle with sea salt while hot.

      Serving Suggestion

      Serve warm with herbed Greek yogurt, lemon aioli, or a dollop of herbed ricotta. A squeeze of lemon at the table is always welcome.

      Wine Pairing: Sauvignon Blanc or a crisp Vermentino.

      Flavor Footnotes

      • A touch of lemon zest in the batter brightens things up.
      • Chop blossoms right before adding so they stay vibrant.
      • Mint + baking powder + cold sparkling water give the fritters their lift.
      • No blossoms? No worries — the fritters still turn out fantastic.
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